Winnerwell® offers a range of versatile wood-burning stoves, ideal for outdoor enthusiasts seeking a reliable heating and cooking solution. The 1G Stove series is specifically tailored for outdoor recreational use, while the External Air Intake series are perfectly suited for creating a snug, warm atmosphere within a hot tent as they don't consume the oxgen inside the tent. 
With these thoughtfully designed stoves, Winnerwell® ensures optimal comfort and functionality across a wide array of outdoor experiences.

Only dry wood should be fired in Winnerwell® stoves. Paraffin blocks, peat and/or pressed blocks such as lignite should be avoided. The use of damp wood or other fuels may cause incomplete combustion and produce carbon monoxide.

Ideally, you make sure you have wood for the night chopped and set up even before you start the fire. A classic rule of thumb is that for one night you need a woodpile that is 1 meter long, 25 cm wide and 50 cm high. Each log should be 25 cm long and roughly as thick as a wrist. If the firewood is too long, the door may not be able to be closed. Coarse wood may burn too slowly, but too thin burns too fast.

The cleanest and most efficient way to light a stove is via the TopDown method. It takes some practice at the beginning, but with the TopDown method you have the least trouble with smoke and therefore a much more efficient and clean combustion. 
Try to avoid paper (newspaper) to start the stove. Paper has a tendency to swirl and this increases the chance that pieces of paper will fly up through the pipe and damage the surroundings. To light your wood, use firelighters, birch bark (from dead trees only) or Syttis bulbs.
Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, ethyl alcohol or similar liquids to light the stove.

Winnerwell® stoves are excellent for cooking. Most of the time, the stove is hottest near the flue and slightly cooler near the door, an excellent way to regulate the heat. You can also adjust the heat with the damper (if there is). Finally, you can use finely chopped wood, so-called coffee wood, to quickly bring water to a boil.
Winnerwell® has water tanks that can be placed on the stove. This way you get access to hot water and the container also helps to store the heat.
Since the heat cannot be reduced to 0 quickly, you need to be able to move the pan away. It might be wise to find a seat before your goulash boils over and everything becomes chaos. Winnerwell's stainless steel stove have level side shelves that lend cooking versatility and double as a carry handle.

Make sure that the stove is in a place where it is stable. With the Winnerwell® stoves, the legs can optionally be anchored by means of anchors, pegs. Also make sure that the stove is level and never place the stove directly on the groundsheet. Use a fire-resistant mat under the stove.

A stove is usually delivered with some type of legs and a tall, straight flue. This works well for larger tent poles where the flue goes up through the top. Smaller tents or cabins with sloping roofs may need a different type of passage where the smoke pipe is provided with two pieces of 45-degree angles to prevent the stove from getting too close to the tent fabric. If you only use a 45 degree angle so that the flue is tilted, there is a risk of the stove tipping over. Flue pipes should always be anchored with e.g. wire, especially if you use angles. Keep in mind that despite spark protection, sparks can fly out of the flue, so we recommend if possible to have the flue on the lee side of the tent.

You should always bear in mind that both the stove and the pipes get very hot, especially the slightly larger stoves. Smoke pipes must never be near combustible material. The smoke pipes can also melt, char or deform normally heat-resistant materials such as aluminium, silicone and fresh twigs. It is safest to have an air gap between the flue and a layer of refractory material, these are kept separated by thick steel wire or other steel construction. You can usually buy Triple-wall Heat Protector Chimney, but even these can get too hot if you fire hard, especially in the larger stoves. As a rule, the flue additions must be supplemented with a silicone penetration (flashing kit), which creates additional distance to the tent fabric.

You should always keep an eye on the following points:

Make sure there is good ventilation. The fire eats up oxygen and you can suffocate if fresh air doesn't come in.  A couple of logs under the tent canvas or similar is a minimum.  The flue gases must exit outside the heating space.

Have sand and stones under the stove or use a fire-resistant mat under the stove and remove combustible material.  The heat can sink into the ground and cause root fire.

Shield the stove with a fireplace restriction if you are going to sleep near it, so sleeping bags do not come into contact.  A couple of arm-thick logs in a square around the stove is usually good. Make sure there is no tripping hazard around the stove.

Have something to put out sparks and small fires with.  A bucket of water and some fir branches tied together work great.  In the military, it is called "Russian card".
Have something to put out larger fires with, e.g. a water can or fire extinguisher. A clean woolen blanket to smother the fire with is also wise.

A fir bush on a long stick standing outside any tent or bivouac can be used to extinguish fire or sparks on the roof or in nearby trees.  This ruska is called "ruska long".

In a tent, you should have a knife so that you can cut open the tent cloth if it catches fire at the exit.

Clean the pipe regularly; soot and/or creosote can form.

A carbon monoxide monitor to keep you and your family safe.

Heat resistant gloves keep your hands protected when in contact with extremely hot surfaces.

A non-toxic fire retardant such as Fire Block. This treatment forms a thermal insulation barrier that prevents dangerous flames from spreading, while inhibiting the development of toxic hydrocarbon smoke.

Never leave the stove burning unattended.

That depends on several factors, but the most important thing is that the tent is firmly anchored. If the tent blows over, there is a good chance that the stove will also fall over. So make sure that any storm lines are out, pegs are firmly in the ground and there are no 'wind catchers' on your tent. Also be sure that pegs are difficult to pull out of the ground (grasslands are sensitive to this). When in doubt: turn off the stove!

To reduce the production of sparks when using a wood stove, here are some refined steps to follow:

Firstly, ensure that the chimney exit is set at an adequate height and install spark arrestor to minimize the risk of sparks escaping. Rather, we advise to avoid coniferous wood with firing. Softwoods, especially larch and Scots pine, are known for the amount of sparks they give off during firing. In addition, burning coniferous wood will cause much more deposits on the stove (pipe), which means that maintenance is required more often.

When igniting the fire, avoid using small wood chips, as they tend to produce fine sparks.  Instead, opt for wax wood strips to initiate the flame.

While adding wood to the stove, avoid stirring the burning charcoal excessively.  Use small pieces of wood as much as possible and add wood frequently, but avoid overfilling the stove each time to leave room for more complete combustion.

If the open fire goes out, after adding more wood, open the damper to its maximum setting to aid in reignition.  As long as the previously burned charcoal remains unextinguished, there is no need for complete reignition.  Never blow on the stove or stir unextinguished charcoal, as this will only cause flying ash and sparks.

Well before you pack up, you stop the fire. It is best if the stove can go out and cool down naturally. You can also shave off remaining wood or embers in a tin bucket or similar. Pouring water on the stove to cool it can deform or destroy the stove. Remember to be very careful when you pack up the tent if the stove is hot, it is best to wait with the tent until everything has cooled down.

Pour plenty of water where the stove was, the ground may be hot and embers may have crept into the ground which can ignite much later.

No, if the stove is used properly, little support is needed. Ash can remain in the stove, provided it is not too thick. Ash insulates well and with a thick layer there is a chance that hot, glowing embers will remain in the ash layer long after it has stopped firing.
To remove the ash layer from the stove, simply use the ash scraper. Collect the ash in a can and when you are sure that the ash has cooled down, you can put it in the residual waste (not the green waste). You can also use the ash for fertilization in the vegetable garden or throw it away in nature. Please note, do not dispose of the ashes in water or concentrated in one place; this changes the PH value of the spot.

Stove Body:
Utilize Winnerwell® Scrubbing Sponge, which comprises two coarse sand decontamination sheets and a fine sand polishing sheet. Firstly use decontamination sheet to eliminate dirt from the stove body. Subsequently, apply a polished sheet to wipe down the surface, leaving it shining like new.

Chimney:
Regularly clean your chimney with Winnerwell® Pipe Brush.  Over time, soot and creosote accumulate, significantly hindering ventilation and posing a risk of "chimney fire."  As soon as you observe flame retardant dust accumulation, promptly clean the chimney. More field-wise is to take a fir brush and scrub with it, this is especially good for getting into the flue.

Glass:
Cleaning stove glass with wood ashes and newspaper is one of the most tried and tested ways:
* Use a soft cloth to wipe the inside of the stove glass down with some soapy water. 
* Scrunch the newspaper up into balls and dip it into water, then in wood ashes; gently scrub the stove glass in circular motions.
* Wipe away the residue with a clean cloth and your wood stove glass should be looking much clearer!

Stainless steel wood stoves are typically impervious to rusting due to their unique alloy composition, which incorporates elements like chromium and nickel. These elements enable the steel to form a dense oxide protective film in the presence of oxygen. This oxide layer effectively safeguards the stainless steel material from further oxidation and corrosion, thus rendering it highly resistant to corrosion. The stove and the pipe parts will give the well-known 'patina' discolouration, but this does not damage the stove and its functioning.

However, improper usage or inadequate maintenance may still lead to rusting in stainless steel wood stoves. Prolonged exposure to humidity or lack of regular cleaning and maintenance can cause rusting. To ensure a long service life and avoid rust issues, it is essential to use and maintain your stainless steel wood stove properly.

Deformation is possible, even with the thick plate. Whether the stove will deform and to what extent, depends on various factors. Among other things, the way and extent to which the stove is used and fired. High firing temperatures, where the flue pipe also turns cherry red, has more influence on the stove than when firing gently. Direct temperature differences, for example due to water/rain on the stove, can also have an influence. Deformation is not serious and will not affect firing.

Preferably you transport the stove in a bag. Winnerwell® has developed carrying bags especially for the stoves and the standard supplied parts. If you do not use a bag, keep in mind that parts can give off soot during transport.

The Winnerwell® accessories are all suitable for the Winnerwell® stoves. There is a difference in a number of accessories with which series and models.